Written by Zakiyah Shani
Image by Desiree Mattsson
One makeup product that can completely change, upgrade or amplify an entire makeup look is eyeshadow. With the endless options of eyeshadow palettes available and makeup inspiration flooding the internet daily, we have been shown that there are many ways to get creative and express yourself through your eye makeup.
However, It can be so much easier said than done when it comes to experimenting with bold, bright or intricate eye looks. If you’re anything like me, you probably have tens, or maybe even hundreds of saved makeup looks on your Instagram, but finding the time to actually re-create them, or sometimes knowing how to, can feel like the biggest hindrance
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A lot of the time, when we see extremely vibrant and pigmented eye makeup, there will always be some kind of eyeshadow primer used as a base. Though not essential, eyeshadow primers are a necessary first step in the eye makeup process and help prevent your eyeshadow from oxidising, transferring or sliding off. The purpose of eyeshadow primer is to provide a firm grip to your lids, which allows your eyeshadow to stay in place, making it look as saturated as possible.
If you wish to enhance the colour pay-off of your brightest eyeshadow pigments, using a white or beige eyeshadow primer on your eyelids will help to increase the visibility and vibrancy of the shade, particularly on deeper skin tones. The bottom line is, if want your eyeshadow to appear on your eyelids the same way it does in the actual palette, then I highly recommend using a primer before you start applying any colour.
Now that we have addressed the convenience of using an eye shadow primer, here are a few tips on how I set and keep eyeshadow looking fresh for hours.
Step 1 – Choose your Primer
When using an eyeshadow primer, I recommend setting it with a matte eyeshadow or powder that is translucent, or close to your skin tone. Once the powder dries, it then makes it easier to blend any other shadows you layer on top.
*Putting an eyeshadow down onto a wet base is going to make the shadow cling and stay right where you put it, making it difficult to blend out — after all, a primer’s job is to keep the shadow in place.
Primer
I like using the NYX Glitter Primer or the P.Louise Eyeshadow Base. The latter is a very dense, full-coverage eyeshadow base that comes in an extensive range of neutral and primary colours, perfect for intensifying your eyeshadow. The NYX Glitter Primer is a product that I use more frequently when I want to make my eyeshadow pop, or last throughout the day.
Don’t be deterred by the use of the word “glitter” as this primer is multipurpose and works perfectly with shimmery pigments when they are applied directly on top of it.
If you don’t have a good base to hand then I would recommend using your concealer as a substitute. Concealers are a great alternative to eyeshadow primer and more often my preferred option. Concealers are used to smooth the skin on the eyelids and even out any discolouration, creating the perfect base for eyeshadow application – but don’t forget to set it!
Concealer
My favourites are the Too Faced Born This Way Concealer and the MAC Studio Conceal and Correct palette. Brush the concealer onto and all over your lids with a concealer brush and then press it in with a damp beauty sponge for even coverage and again, set with a translucent or skin coloured powder.
Step 2 – Use a good blending brush
Morphe
My two favourite blending brushes are the Morphe M441 – Firm Blending Crease Eyeshadow Brush and the Morphe M519 – Crease Blender. I find that they are the perfect brushes to use and ideal for seamlessly blending transitions between colours. When working through your crease (a.k.a. eye socket) blend your eyeshadow in back-and-forth motions from the outer to inner corners until you have your desired shape.
Step 3 – Pack on the pigment, don’t swipe
MAC
The most effective way to apply pigment directly onto your eyelids is by using packing or pressing motions, to build up and blend the colour. My favourite brush for eyelids is the Mac 217S Blending Brush – a dense, oval-shaped brush that makes it easier to pack on and blend both powder and cream eyeshadow.
Step 4 – Use eye pencils or gel liner under your eyeshadow
This is my favourite tip for smokey eyes, smokey liner or any eye looks that you wish to brighten. I find that it is easier to create and intensify bright or smokey eye looks by using an eye pencil or gel liner close in colour to the eyeshadow you are using. The texture of the pencil and gel liner make it hard for the eyeshadow pigment to move or fade, whilst increasing the brightness and saturation.
No matter how simple or extravagant you like to be with your eye makeup, these tips will help to ensure that your eyeshadow can be seen from across the room and lasts throughout the day (or night).
